Keegan-Filion is only open Monday or Friday from 1-6 pm, so plan accordingly. When you show up, you will probably have to call Annie who will come to help you right away. She has 4 freezers full of really beautiful pork and chicken products. The quality of the meat is visually palpable. If you’ve eaten in any number of nice restaurants in town (Fig, Cypress and so on) you have probably tasted these superior products. I was actually a little underwhelmed with the farm eggs sold here–I think that what Celeste Albers is producing is a lot richer, but this isn’t the point of visiting Keegan. I picked up a great variety of products; chorizo, bratwurst, whole small chickens, chicken breasts, chicken thighs, breakfast sausage, ground pork, and a bone for my boxer pup. Austin picked up a few pounds of marinated chicken wings. Alicia picked up a bit of just about everything for sale. Also available is a variety of offal, pork chops, pork butts, and some other pork sausages.

Mark Keegan showed us around and explained how raising animals in this fashion can be really cost prohibitive. I get the sense that for them, a lot of the richness of this life comes from the satisfaction of raising the animals properly and from making customers really happy. Keegan raises heritage pigs, mostly from the Tamworth breed, as well as heritage Turkeys, chickens, and grass fed Cattle, mostly Holsteins. Things work in season at Keegan, and you won’t find the total offering at any one time. Right now, there was no beef, bacon, or turkey available, though it should be pretty soon. I will certainly be going back for more, or meeting Mark Keegan in Summerville on Saturday mornings, where he delivers pre-orders to Charleston area customers. I really like what this farm is doing and wish them continued success.

contact Keegan Filion Farms:

http://www.keeganfilionfarm.com/

What I love about this place in particular is that the menu takes some risks, like the charred octopus mezze (I dare you to find octopus in more than 1 other restaurant here) and the little whole fried fish mezze. These are both great dishes. I also think that Samos has really perfect Tzaziki–silky and rich, perfectly garlicky, with a nice hit of the appropriate fresh herbs. Other things on my favorites list and in this category are Samos’s other dips: The potato and garlic puree and the eggplant and walnut puree. These are versatile dips that could be packaged up just like hummus–maybe something to look forward to.

Another really succesful dish at Samos is the Shrimp, Feta, and Tomato bake that is served in a hot, personal sized cast iron skillet. I really like the presentation of this dish and find it very consistent. Best of all, this, along with all of the other mezze, are avaialable during happy hour for $5 ea. House wines and beers are $3. During happy hour, you can eat and drink really well, at a leisurley pace, for less than $25 for two.

The wine list at Samos is also really interesting and very good. The house white is a propietary blend of grapes that is complex, delicious, and most importantly, affordable. The rest of the list should keep any wine lover satiated.

Another big plus for Samos is the attention to detail that has been paid. The bread is warm and crusty, the olive oil is rich and green and tastes like olive oil should taste. The only major downside of Samos is the noise level, which can get pretty unbearable on a busy night. I’m not sure how much acoustic tiles could really help in this narrow space. Also, I would like to see some really good Greek Oregano, that most misunderstood and wonderful herb, in the spotlight more. I would also like it if the kitchen could source some wild Greek greens instead of using spinach for its greens. Regardless, Samos is very good and is the perfect place to enjoy some interesting food in a cool environment.

check them out on the web:

http://www.samostaverna.com/

visits: 5+

prices:

Happy Hour: around $15 a person

Dinner: around $40 ea with a drink or two

I doubt that you have ever tried a truly great extra virgen olive oil, unless you grew up in an olive growing region or maybe if you have access to high end restaurant purveyors. This extra virgen, available only through www.latienda.com, is one of these truly great oils. It comes from a small hacienda run by the Vano family in the south of Spain, right outside of Jaen (the real olive capital of the world–no, Italy doesn’t come close). I really love both varieties of this–the picual is more robust and powerful while the arbequina tastes more fruity. Both have an intense, green taste and really great body–these oils are harvested early, which contributes to their greenness and full flavor. Early pressing produces less but better tasting olive oil. I can’t think of any sad supermaret brand that comes even close to these oils. Even most gourmet store extra virgens, which often come  with a much higher price tag, cannot compare.  This oil pours beautifully on the plate for dipping with bread and is amazing when used to finish hot soup.

One taste and you will know. Order a bottle or both varietals together at www.latienda.com

http://www.charlestoncitypaper.com/charleston/raval-is-now-closed-for-business/Content?oid=1625737

I think that Closed is doing really smart plates and has a nice, compact beer list. This place makes me want to hang around and drink lots of good beer and spend money. And I am not sure that the 21 and up issue will keep too many college kids down–it doesn’t stop them from going to any other bar.

Everyone expects a lot out of the REV group, so there seem to be lots of vitriols out there (see the comments below City Paper article). But I think that REV has nailed this concept and executed it quite nimbly. I can’t think of another group that can tear down and put up so quickly and hit the ground running.

I have been to Closed a few times, and apart from some overly piquant mussels, everything has been great. I ate there last night with a good chef friend and he was noticing that a lot of dishes seem to be picked from great gastropub menus in Chicago. It is apparent that REV did their homework and took a few food trips to various cities. I get the sense that Chicago is the main source of influence here. Anyhow, the plates are smart here and make sense. The Chicago style hot dog with pickled vegetables is good, though the bun needs to be steamed before it is served. I also loved the buffalo oysters–kind of an upscale version of the standard, with blue cheese and really perfectly fried oysters. The small menu is essentially a tight collection of awesome things to eat, with no unifying theme at all. I like this a lot, and think it is also reminiscent of Shine’s menu in many ways. I can live with this type of menu ADD as long as the plates are great–and they are at Closed.

Go to Closed for Business. Drink a bunch of beer and order lots of food. I doubt that you will leave dissapointed.

I’ve visited The Glass Onion three times (1 lunch + 2 dinners) since it hit the ground running a few weeks ago, and I don’t hesitate to call it an instant classic. They make an effort to source all of their ingredients locally or as close as possible to local and use good quality natural meats and local shrimp and seafood. And the prices are great, truly. $10-$13 gets you an entree with sides. $8 gets you a huge sandwich. On the side hand cut French fries are served with beef gravy or bernaise sauce, reason enough to visit. 

For lunch I like the oyster and pot roast po boys, served on a fresh hoagie with house made pickles. The cornbread with local honey is moist and delicious and the collards are good. For dinner, the shrimp and bean entree is light and nice, though it came a bit under-seasoned to the table. 

The Glass onion changes its menu daily; you can check it for updates on their webpage: www.ilovetheglassonion.com

As warmer weather approach, the menu will no doubt spring to life with strawberries, squash, tomatoes, and other spring and summer harvest. I will keep returning to The Glass Onion and look forward to the upcoming seasonal menu changes.

I’ve eaten through a lot Fig’s somewhat seasonal menu over the course of many visits. I appreciate what Lata is doing—what I understand to be localism prepared with roughly French technique and great quality ingredients. Lata has been on the local/seasonal bandwagon since its beginning (in the states at least). Trends come and go, and I imagine that soon “organic” and molecular gastronomy will meet their demise. (Do you think Adria eats science food when he is hungry? No, it’s just food wanking). However local/seasonal eating is here to stay because it is in its essence an anti-trend. Food simply tastes good when it’s seasonal and local—this wisdom is commonsensical.

Right now Fig’s menu uses late fall’s produce with warming, winter preparations. There are root vegetables, braises, the usual seafood standbys, and so forth. On this particular visit, nothing wowed us more than the ethereal, unbelievably textured pate made with chicken liver and pastured pork fat. This dish comes with the traditional accompaniments (cornichons, mustard…) and is without a doubt the best I’ve ever tasted (I eat pate whenever it’s available) and certainly the best in town. This one should not be missed.

For starters (apart from the pate), we sampled the Tennessee style ham and the beef tartare. I found the ham to be too salty and cut too thick with a somewhat strange flavor. It came with arugula and some cheese (pecorino I think) which didn’t really make sense to me—the greens did not really highlight or illuminate the pork in any way and seemed to be nothing more than a garnish. I would prefer this sliced much thinner like a serrano and served with some of the edible things that those no doubt good quality pigs might eat. This dish was the only miss of the night. The beef tartare was vibrant and delicious—obviously ground from great quality meat and served with paper-thin fried potato slices—almost like a deconstructed burger and fries—this, to me, made perfect sense. A quail egg, however, would’ve been nice.

Our entrees, though pleasant, did not wow either of us like the pate had. My braised short rib was fork tender and very meaty tasting with a nice puree of root vegetables. This dish was simple and satisfying. My friend’s flounder was also nicely cooked—perfectly crisp and tender—and very fresh—but to me a little uninventive—I definitely prefer FIG’s triggerfish which really highlights Lata’s ambitious side—triggerfish is a mess to deal with—ask any fisherman. As a side we shared FIG’s cauliflower in brown butter, which was under seasoned, though delicious once salted.

FIG has a nice dessert offering that rounds out a well-paced, enjoyable meal. We tried the Bosc pear, butterscotch pot de crème, and apple crisp. These old standby’s worked nicely and were not end of the meal gut busters.

FIG is great and consistently praised (rightfully so) by local food writers. It was even mentioned by the New York Times. Maybe this praise comes in response to both what FIG is and is not among its peers. It is local, high quality, well-prepared food served in a laid back dining room with perfect, understated service. It is not annoying fusion food, tourist seafood, food served by a tuxedoed man-servant, or god forbid, molecular gastronomy. However, as Charleston’s de facto “foodie” restaurant, I find FIG a bit lacking in ambition (though not in approach). Maybe some house cured meats and/or house pickled vegetables could add that extra artisanal touch and ingenuity that will keep foodies interested. Either way, I’ll be back for more soon and praise FIG for what it has accomplished so far.

Check out FIG’s homepage: http://www.figrestaurant.com

I sampled the Moroccan side of the menu during my first visit–a really nice beef tagine with Harissa and dried cherries, an olive plate, Moroccan style mussels, and Harira (chickpea stew). Everything tasted very bright and properly seasoned with the wide North African palette of spices that includes coriander, cumin, cardamom, citrus, caraway, cinnamon, anise, saffron…sometimes these spices can be abused, but Fez used them very appropriately–the vegetable salad that accompanies the tagines illustrates this understanding well; shredded carrots with cumin, zucchini with caraway, and cauliflower with a delicate saffron taste (saffron can be really overpowering). I like that Fez cooks honestly and skillfully with these ingredients–it helps show that Charleston is sophisticated enough for new food. I would however add to the end of the meal the very important tradition of delicious, sweet Moroccan mint tea decanted from midair out of an ornate silver tea kettle. And maybe a hookah in the bar area? I’m sure this was mulled over so I respect their decision, but the mint tea is a total oversight–it’s just too quintessential to miss (and a bag of mint tea doesn’t count).

As usual, objections to this (like any) rendition of ethnic food will arise. It’s not home made Moroccan, it’s not particularly regional, the owners aren’t natives, and you could find it for much cheaper in Morocco. But this isn’t Morocco, and Fez does an honest job recreating Moroccan in a really nice environment and fills yet another void in our dining scene. I will return soon try the French side of the menu and the things that I missed from the Moroccan side. I am happy Fez has arrived and look forward to this groups next venture. Any ideas what it should be?

I have an idea, or truth be told, a desperate plea: Upscale Lebanese–the most delicate, refined, and delicious cuisine from the Middle East–totally under-appreciated and not at all what you get in a fast food shawarma/falafel joint (although we need that as well). For now I’ll have to make it at home, which is fine (check out Nada Saleh’s ‘New Flavors of the Lebanese Table’ or her ‘Seductive Flavors of the Levant’–these are some of the best books on the Eastern Mediterranean). Or a great Persian place. Or a regional Greek place. I am ready for any new ethnic food that is not Italian. Enough Italian already.

Oh yeah, half of my table was also sickened by the meal (there were 8 of us total).

There is a lot I do not like about Tristan and because of its stature and price tag I do not feel bad expressing these things. First, the dining room (recently renovated?) looks like a bad 1990’s vision of the modern future, at once expensive and tasteless. Also, check out the Demolition Man style sculpture sinks in the bathrooms. At any upscale restaurant, I hope for a dining room that makes sense in relation to the menu, whether it’s rustic like La Fourchette’s, dark and stately like Oak’s, or minimal and modern like Fig’s, for example. Actually, looking at it that way, Tristan’s décor does sync up with the experience.

The food at Tristan is undeniably fancy and prepared with obvious skill and technical knowledge from its chef. At the same time it really lacks soul and is more of a display of technique than anything. I get the sense that the chef is just going through the motions. The food is formulaic. He wears a chef cam. One of the sauces (chocolate BBQ) is bottled for sale. What results is that the total experience at Tristan tells you with a fair amount of force that you are enjoying the impressive food and ambience without even asking you if you really like it. There is no subtlety here. The chef bottles his own sauce it’s so good!

But it’s not. It’s expensive and cheesy, and a lot of it is downright bad and sickening, like the butterfish and seared fois gras over lima beans and a sickly sweet, torrid butter sauce with kiwi-strawberry gastrique (it is hard to think about this dish without a wave of nausea hitting me). Or the tuna over fava beans, which made a companion make some hilarious faces in disgust. Or fishy tasting scallops over way too rich risotto. Those were the worst, the rest was average…asparagus appetizer, decent salads and so forth…and a few things were very good like the duck appetizer (delicious, tender slices of duck breast) and of course, the tomahawk ribeye (ribeye is almost impossible to screw up with all of its delicious marbling).

Tristan is like a culinary version of the band Dreamtheater who can shred through every musical scale in the world and play in some impossible African time signature that white people can’t even perceive. But who wants to listen to Dreamtheater? In the end it is soulless musical masturbation. Likewise, Tristan can prepare fancy food, plate real pretty, use a chef cam, bottle its sauces, and dream up any other number of gimmicks, but I will not be paying attention, because like listening to Dreamtheater, I do not enjoy what they are doing.

The Farmers Market at Marion Square (every sat. until 2) is a pretty good way to add some local flavor to your life, though you won’t be able to find everything you need here. My favorite produce stand, “Owl’s Nest Plantation” is run by a very serious and friendly farmer. His produce is pristine and even organic— he went to the trouble to get organic certification which is increasingly seen as a big and unnecessary financial hurdle for small farms (look for “all natural, no pesticides used” as a euphemism for organic but not big enough to comply with the USDA’s long bureaucracy). Owl’s Nest has the nicest salad greens I have ever seen (no exaggeration) including arugula, baby spinach, and spring mix. Also, their garlic, especially the purple variety, is truly great, especially if you crush lots of garlic in your cooking. Likewise all of his fruits are top notch and his tomatoes are never refrigerated and without a doubt the best at the market. You pay a small premium at this stand though it is worth it.

Unlike Owl’s nest, a lot of the bigger stands sell things that are not local or seasonal. I know that each stand is allowed a certain percentage of non-local produce—but I can go to the grocery store for bananas from California. On the up-side, most of the bigger stands sell great corn, watermelon, peaches, and butterbeans in season.

Kennerty Farms has a small table that sells some of the best local honey available. According to the owners, they pay a lot of attention to the placement of their hives in order to draw the best flavor from wildflowers and other local vegetation. The result is an interesting and complex wild honey that will destroy any normal honey that you buy from the store.

The market is missing a lot of the upper portion of the food pyramid, with a few exceptions. Local food celebrity Celeste Albers sells her Sea Island farm fresh eggs and raw cow’s milk at her little stand near the food vendors—check out this great piece by Sarah O’Kelly about Albers’ farm and others alike:

www.charlestoncitypaper.com/gyrobase/Content?oid=oid%3A28729

Her eggs are uncharacteristically rich and completely unlike the pale yolked, liquidy eggs from the supermarket—these have rich, solid, almost fluorescent orange yolks that make baked good taste richer and are amazing simply fried over easy in some butter. I think that of all the local products one finds, this one will surprise you the most. Apart from her eggs and some produce, you can usually find fresh locally caught shrimp for sale.

Apart from these few offerings, there is nothing in the way of meat or poultry available for sale at the market. I truly think that pastured chicken, pork, and beef would add a tremendous amount of appeal to the market by nicely rounding out its offerings and making it it easier for the average person to find everything they need to put together a special, locally raised, healthful meal. Apparently the lack of meat owes to a lack of producers within the local geography, which stops at I-95 about an hour away. There is plenty of pastured meat available in the midlands and upstate, especially around Columbia and Greenville. Hopefully our market will carry these things in the future.

There are things I am leaving out for brevity’s sake; the other noteworthys are the famous crepe stand with a 30 minute wait, Evo pizza which has good ingredients but is sometimes too burned on the bottom, fresh handmade pasta, squash blossoms in season, good planted herb selection, and enough kitchsh crafts to keep the tourists busy.

*Update*
9/15/07 This was the first week that a cattle farm (River Run or River Bend Farm-can’t remember the name) set up shop at the farmers market to sell their grass-fed pastured beef. This is certainly the real thing–the cattle are raised on a family farm in Santee–and it seems like the whole family runs the booth on Saturday as well. The patriarch, Mr. Oliver (I think it’s Ray Oliver) will talk to you about how much care and work goes into raising his beef and the nutritional profile of his beef versus grain fed beef from lesser animals. The meat is indeed delicious and distinctive with a clean taste and less of the unctuous mouth feel of grain fed beef (grain fed has more saturated fat). Definitely worth checking out at the market–talk to this family and you will experience the almost disappeared romance of buying great meat from a proud producer. This interaction, to me, is what makes a farmers market special and worthwile.

I like Uno Mas more for what it isn’t than for what it is. The menu is very unconfused–no stupid Asian Fusion on its periphery, no annoying Tex Mex dishes like fajitas or extreme burritos, and overall a pretty good sense of identity. However, for all of its authenticity, the menu’s items are pretty insipid and lifeless. I tried the taco sampler which features six of the meats also found on the entree list. While nothing was strikingly bad, nothing was strikingly great. The stewed meats lacked the rich confit fattiness of great carnitas or al pastor meat while the seafood, although fresh, did not seem to be anything more than just cooked. Of all the nice chiles mentioned on the menu–Ancho, Pasilla, Guajillo…none really popped or added any of that fruity, smoky richness characteristic of proper chile manipulation (might I suggest quickly toasting the dried chiles over open flame to release their flavors). The black beans were undersalted and tasteless and should be refried or at least mashed a bit—whole black beans are Yucatecan and/or Caribbean and do not match the rest of the menu.

Parco’s model for restaurants, judging by those that have preceded this one–Mustard Seed, Sette, Boulevard diner…is basically to shoot for middle-priced, good, accessible food. To this end, he has always succeeded and does so again. Uno Mas is not Rick Bayless’s Frontera Grill (Chicago) which does a great job with its treatment of upscale Mexican cocina (Bayless has a formidable collection of cookbooks and you’ve probably seen his frontera brand salsas in the supermarket). It is definitely not one of the Mexico D. F. classics (check out this recent Bittman piece in the NY times: http://travel.nytimes.com/2007/01/28/travel/28Choice.html). But I guess that is not the point…

Maybe Uno Mas doesn’t deserve to be thrown in the same pool with really serious Mexican Restaurants around the country. And truthfully it isn’t in that category—it will never surprise or innovate—and that’s fine. It’s just that when it calls itself upscale I get excited that something great and new has arrived in Charleston—only to find that it really hasn’t. Oh well, they have a great tequila selection and good enough Margarita’s.